Part 1: What is the knife?
This part will introduce the knife anatomy and blade shape.
Knife Anatomy
False Edge
Knives bevels on the top edge are referred to as a "false edge". The false edge enhances penetration but also weakens the point
Belly
The belly is the curving part of the edge. Bellies enhance slicing ability. When the belly gets larger, design considerations often dictate that the point become less sharp to get a trade-off of belly or point depending on how important slicing vs. penetration is.
Bevel
The knife maker puts the bar on the grinder at an angle and starts grinding in an edge. This is a bevel -- any plane taken out of the rectangular bar, along either side.
Guard
The guard is a barrier between hand and the sharp edge. It will project out of the handle, to stop forward motion of your hand.
Choil
The choil is an unsharpened section of the blade. If a guard is present, the choil will be in front of the guard on the blade itself. The choil is often used as a way to choke up on the blade for close-in work.
Tang
The tang is the part of the knife where the blade stops and the handle starts. A full tang knife has a tang that goes the length of the handle at full width. tapered tang is that taper the tang so it gets thinner as it goes back into the handle.
Butt Cap/Pommel
The pommel refers to the end of the handle of a knife. Many knives have a metal cap over the pommel, called a butt cap.
Blade Spine
The blade spine typically refers to the full thickness portion of the blade. On a single-edge flat-ground knife, blade spine always refers to the outermost back of the blade. On a classic dagger, the spine refers to the fullest-thickness part of the blade running straight down the middle. On knives with false edges, the term "spine" is used inconsistently. Technically, the spine would be the fullest thickness part of the blade where the main bevel meets the false edge bevel; however, blade spine is often used to describe the back of the blade instead, right over the false edge.
Escutcheon
The escutcheon is a medallion, often seen on the classic-style pocket knife handles to identify the brand or model of the knife, or to distinguish between model years.
Blade shape Clip Point
A blade format where the top of the blade has a cut-out -- or "clip" -- at the top of the blade. The cutout is either concave or straight
Drop Point
A drop-point blade is characterized by a slow convex-curved drop in the point。The drop-point format lowers the point for control, but leaves the point extremely strong. Usually coupled with plenty of belly for slicing, this format is often used for hunting knives.
Tanto
The classic Japanese tanto shape has the point exactly inline with the spine of the blade, and has a graceful belly curve. Tanto has a high-point in-line with the spine.
Trailing Point
A trailing point blade has the point higher than the spine, and a lot of curving belly. Most popular on skinning knives, this format leaves the point high and out of the way, while providing an abundant belly for slicing jobs.
Sheepsfoot
A format in which the spine of the blade curves down to meet the edge. This format has no point, and very little or no belly. It is used in applications where slicing is the main requirement, and a point is either not needed or would actively get in the way.
Hookblade
Hookblades have long been popular as gardening knives, and have recently undergone a resurgence in the tactical market as well. The format forces the material towards the sweet spot of the curve, where a lot of slicing power is available.
Part 2: Material selection
This part includes the instruction of steel and handle material
Types of Steel
Steel makers follow a precise recipe to ensure that each time they make a particular alloy it has correct properties. The recipes are known as Specifications, and they specify the amount of each alloy. Each alloy recipe or type is named according to a number convention.
Sandvik 12C27: Stainless steel made in Sweden. Known as a premium steel.
1095 Steel: Easy to sharpen, plain carbon steel used in knife making.
D2 Steel: A high-carbon, high-chrome tool steel often used for blanking dies. This steel has excellent edge holding ability but is very difficult to process.
S30V: Developed primarily for the cutlery industry by Crucible Steel, S30V contains noticeably higher amounts of Carbon and Vanadium than does BG-42. This increase in Carbon and Vanadium provides superior edge-holding and abrasion resistance. S30V is the best blade steel available today.
BG-42: A proprietary alloy of Timken Latrobe Steel, BG-42 is a high-performance, bearing-grade martensitic stainless steel used in the aerospace industry. Because of its high strength and ability to reach high Rockwell hardness (Rc 61-62), BG-42 is well suited for blades that are subjected to extreme use.
154CM: 154CM is a very high carbon stainless steel with the addition of Molybdenum. Because 154CM provides better edge retention than standard cutlery (stainless) steels, it is a good choice for blades that require heavier cutting applications.
420HC: A higher carbon version of standard Type 420 martensitic stainless steel. The Carbon content, combined with the high Chromium content, provides good abrasion resistance and edge-holding.
420J2: A lower carbon content, general-purpose stainless steel. 420J2 has fair hardness and corrosion resistance and high ease of resharpening. 420J2 is suited for knife blades with light to medium use and routine applications.
17-7 PH: A Chromium/Nickel/Aluminum, precipitation-hardening, stainless steel. The alloy is used for high-strength applications requiring resistance to salt-water corrosion. 17-7PH offers a good compromise between Martensitic stainless steels and Austeniticstainless steels.
N690: A Martensitic stainless steels, can reach HRC 60 after twice heat treat. It contains 1.07％carbon, 17％ chromium, 1.50％ cobalt, 0.4％ manganes,' 0.4％ silico,' 1.1％molybdenum and 0.1％vanadium.
AUS stainless steel:
AUS comes in several grades. AUS-4 is 0.40% to 0.45% carbon, but AUS-10 is 0.95% to 1.10% carbon. The level of chromium is 13% to 14.5%, less than the 440 varieties but still enough to ensure a stainless blade. Generally speaking, AUS-10 knives will be more expensive than the other three AUS varieties.
440 stainless steel:
The most common type of stainless knife steel is 440. It comes in three varieties, which have different amounts of carbon and other metals they contain. On the low end is 440A, which has 0.65% to 0.75% carbon. On the high end is 440C, which has 0.95% to 1.20% carbon. All 440 steels are 16% to 18% chromium, which contributes to their stainless quality.
Handle types
Glass Filled Nylon
Nylon is reinforced with glass particles and other materials to provide strength and durability while still allowing some flexibility.
Kraton G Thermoplastic Elastomer
Referred to simply as Kraton, is a man made material resembling rubber that can be molded into knife handles. Provides a non-slip grip.
Kydex
A hard plastic material used for sheaths. Chemical, corrosion and impact resistant.
Micarta
A man made material, made by layering resin and cloth. Used to make very fine knife handles. Westinghouse trademark.
Pakkawood
A tough, resin impregnated wood used to make knife handles.
Powdered Metal
A process used to make shaped metal pieces. Fine metal particles are molded under pressure and then fused under high heat. Also known as sintered metal.
Zytel
A glass-filled nylon material used in making handles for knives.
Stag
Stag is a beautiful handle material. Stag has its charm from the rough texture of it's surface. This can also make it hard to use.
Bone
Including Cattle and Water Buffalo Bone in Smooth, Undyed Slabs, Jigged and Dyed Slabs and Carved and Dyed "Stag" and "Impala" pattern slabs. Cattle bone is better for dyeing. Water Buffalo Bone is less porous and better for scrimshaw.
Horn
Asian Water Buffalo Horn is a traditional natural material for knife handles. Carved horn handles and slabs are solid and don't need to be dyed.
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1. Choose the material and fine blanking:
The blade must be cut out of raw steel. Tekut Knives uses raw steel in two forms--plates and coils.
Plate steel- used for the larger knives that typically require thicker blades or higher hardness and edge retention
Coil steel - used for the smaller knives that typically have thinner blades. Blades and knife components are cut out of steel coils through a process known as "fine blanking" that uses a specifically shaped die to press the blades out of the raw steel coils.
We should choose the steel by quantity, price and function of the knife.
2. Stamping:
Depending on the model, stamping might include special features, such as a nail notch or groove. All the dimension must be exact.
3. Rectify:
Make the blade flat and smooth
4. Heat treating:
Heat-treating is the process that blades are prepared to make them suitable for their end use in a specific type of knife. Heat-treating imparts special qualities to metals, such as hardness, strength, ductility and others. Since different steels are used for different types of knives, they require slightly different heat-treating processes to acquire the desired properties.
5. Grinding:
Hollow blade: It is easy to sharpen, but the cutting edge is fragile.
Double Angle edge : It provides very durable blade support and are great for tough cutting.
Convex edge: It seems as durable as a double angle, and if not abused seems to hold a fine cutting edge longer than double angle. A flap sander sharpener produces a convex cutting edge.
The single sharp edge: It is the best edge for hard coated blade.
6. Polishing:
Different kind of knife handles and blade become smooth after polishing.
Tolerance can reach to 0.02mm
7. Finish:
list the kinds of our comment use.
1) Alumite: A hard coating used to protect aluminum handles from corrosion and scratches.
2) Anodized :A treatment that colors titanium using electric current.
3) Epoxy Powder Coating :A coating process that protects blades from corrosion and also makes them non-reflective.
4) Black Teflon: It is the toughest Teflon finish. This process is extremely complex.
5) Titanium nitride coating: The knife is sharpened only on one side and relies on the hardness and wear resistance of the titanium nitride to keep the knife sharp. The titanium is of course fully rust resistant.
8. Assembly:
The knives are assembled using various processes, materials, fasteners and adhesives, depending on the model.
9.Edging:
The thickness of smaller knife is generally 0.2-0.3mm and larger is generally 0.5-0.6mm
10. Inspection:
We should assure both the structure and function of the knife are perfect.
11.Oiling:
Mop up the lubrication to protect form rusting .
12.Cleaning and package:
Each knife is given a final cleaning and then package.
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Even though our blades are made with corrosion-resistant stainless steel, prolonged exposure to the elements can cause the steel's surface to oxidize. Folding knives should be kept clean, particularly the locking device on lock-blade knives. It is important that your knives are cared for correctly so that you can use them at their optimum performance each time.
Blade:
All blades made of stainless still may be rust. If any rust appears, removes surface oxidation, rust, tarnish and sticky residues while leaving a protective coating. With each use of your knife, wash clean and dry completely and sometimes lubricate. You can choose chemical solvents such as Acetone, alcohol or paint thinner to clean your blade. Use care with these solvents, as some, such as acetone, may damage some handles. Avoid harsh detergents that contain Chlorine (mostly powders, including some for washing dishes and clothes), which can accelerate corrosion of the blade steel. Avoid prolonged immersion in liquids (water, solvents, etc.). This can have a detrimental effect on the metal parts. but handles made of wood or other porous materials as well.
Handle:
Natural woods benefit from an occasional rubbing with oil. Wipe off excess. Metal handle should be clean and keep dry .Plastic handle don’t need more care. Don’t immerse in liquid for long time, it has some detrimental effect on handles made of wood and other porous materials.
Sheath:
Clean with leather soap. Do not use any oils on the leather, as this will soften the molded shape of the sheath.
Lubricating:
Periodically, and always after cleaning, apply a small amount of lubricant to the working parts of the knife, particularly the pivot points of a folding knife. Then apply a thin film of lubricant to the entire surface of the blade. This will help prevent surface oxidation and corrosion from moisture.
Storage:
If you will not be using your knife for a period of time, remove it from the sheath. Leather contains acid that could stain your blade. Store in a display case or wrapped in a soft cloth.
Sharpening:
All knives require sharpening after prolonged use. It is recommended that your blade be kept well honed at all times, a sharp knife is safer to use than a dull one.
You can follow the instruction:
Use a fine or superfine diamond stone, the edge you get will generally suit all purposes. To achieve a razor sharp edge, finish with a white or black Arkansas stone, used with oil.
Try to cut a slice off the stone. Impossible of course, but you will make the right movement and will surely keep the correct angle! A circular movement along the edge will also bring a good edge. Finish with some light, polishing strokes.
Try for yourself to shape the edge which fits your wishes best by grinding and honing the edge to different thicknesses. Keep in mind that a thick edge will last better than a thin one, but doesn’t feel as sharp nor does it cut wood like a thin edge will - find out what suits you best. Always keep the knife sharp, as a proper knife will be used with respect and will do the job perfectly well, a dull one might cause injury.
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